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Guide

Is 100 Amp Service Enough for a House?

The Ontario code sets 100 A as a floor for most houses, not a verdict on yours. What a load calculation actually decides, and when 200 A is wasted money.

Last updated
August 2026

Nearly everybody asking this question has already been told the answer by somebody with something to sell.

So here is the version with the arithmetic in it.

What the code actually requires

The Ontario Electrical Safety Code sets a minimum service size for a single dwelling, and it is tied to floor area rather than to what you own.

Once the floor area of the dwelling, not counting the basement, reaches 80 square metres — about 861 square feet — the minimum permitted service is 100 A. Below that area, the code permits 60 A.

Read that carefully, because it is routinely misquoted in both directions. It does not say 100 A is adequate for your house. It says nobody may install less. A floor is not an assessment.

Which is why the real question is a calculation

The service has to carry the connected load, and that is worked out rather than eyeballed. Floor area gives a basic load. Then the range, the water heater, any electric heat, the air conditioning, the dryer and any additional loads are added, each with the demand factor the code assigns it.

The answer comes out in amps. It is either under 100 or it is not.

How do I know if my electrical service is big enough?

You have it calculated once, properly, and then you know for a decade. It takes a competent contractor under an hour with the panel schedule and a walk through the house, and it is the difference between a four-thousand-dollar decision made on evidence and one made on a hunch.

What genuinely eats a 100 A service

Not lighting. Not receptacles. Not the things people worry about.

LoadAppetiteNotes
Electric baseboard or furnace heatVery largeThe single biggest driver in this region
Level 2 EV chargerLargeCounted as a continuous load at 125 percent of its rating
Electric rangeLargeGas or propane changes the answer entirely
Electric water heaterLargeCommon on rural properties with no gas
Heat pumpModerate to largeDepends on backup heat strategy
Hot tubModerateFrequently the load that tips it over

One of these on a 100 A service is usually fine. Three is usually not. That is the whole shape of it.

The charger is the modern trigger

More service upgrades get booked because of a car than for any other reason now, and a good share of them are not needed. A level 2 charger counts as a continuous load at 125 percent of its rating, which is why it takes more room in the calculation than its nameplate suggests, and why the charger question deserves its own working.

An energy management system that sheds the charger when the range or the dryer is running is the alternative, and on a house that is otherwise comfortable at 100 A it is dramatically cheaper than the upgrade.

A full panel is not a full service

This one costs people real money, so it is worth separating properly.

Spaces are physical slots for breakers in the panel enclosure. Capacity is how much current the service conductors and the main can carry. They have nothing to do with each other.

A panel with no spaces left, on a service with plenty of headroom, is a subpanel job. A service running near its calculated limit, behind a panel with four empty spaces, needs an upgrade regardless of how roomy it looks.

Anyone quoting a service upgrade because the panel “is full” has answered the wrong question.

What changes the price around here

Two regional facts move the number more than the amperage does.

The ground. A grounding electrode behaves differently in thin soil over Canadian Shield rock through Bracebridge, Huntsville and Parry Sound than it does in the dry sand at Wasaga Beach or the deep organic soil of the Holland Marsh at Bradford. That is the most common reason two identical panels get quoted hundreds of dollars apart, and what a panel upgrade costs here goes through it properly.

The distributor. A service upgrade needs a disconnect, and the disconnect is scheduled by whichever of the region’s nine utilities holds your town — Hydro One in Orillia, Newmarket-Tay in Midland, Lakeland Power across Muskoka, EPCOR in Collingwood. That, not Collingwood electrical permit turnaround time, decides your calendar, not your electrician’s. The notification of work goes in before any of it.

Coming up from 60 amps is a different job

A 60 A service is not a smaller version of this decision. It is a different one.

Sixty amps with screw-in fuses, ungrounded circuits and two-prong receptacles throughout is the pre-war town stock in Orillia, Midland, Collingwood and Creemore, and it is usually an insurance conversation rather than a capacity one. The upgrade generally takes a new mast, meter base and panel rather than a panel swap, which is why it sits at the top of the range on our service page for panel upgrades.

What we will tell you not to spend money on

Do not go to 200 A because a neighbour did. The calculation is about your house and your appliances. A gas range and a gas water heater change the answer completely.

Do not upgrade to fit one charger before somebody has priced an energy management system against it.

Do not pay for a service upgrade to solve a spaces problem. A subpanel is a fraction of the cost and it is the correct fix.

And do not go past 200 A on a house without a calculation that genuinely demands it. It is rare, it is expensive, and it is usually a sign that something upstream in the specification is wrong.

FAQ

Related questions

Is 100 amp service enough for a house in Ontario?

For a great many houses, yes. The Ontario Electrical Safety Code treats 100 A as the minimum service for a single dwelling once the floor area above the basement reaches 80 square metres, which is about 861 square feet. Below that area the code permits 60 A. A minimum is a floor, though, and whether yours is enough is decided by a load calculation on what the house actually runs.

What actually forces an upgrade to 200 amp?

Electric heat, a large electric range, an electric water heater, a hot tub, a heat pump and a level 2 charger, in roughly that order of appetite. Any two or three of those together on a 100 A service is where the calculation usually runs out of room. One of them on its own frequently does not.

Does a full panel mean I need a bigger service?

No, and this is the most common false alarm in the trade. Spaces in a panel and capacity in a service are unrelated. A panel with no spaces left can often take tandem breakers or feed a subpanel, and a service with plenty of capacity can sit behind a physically full panel. The panel is a box. The service is the supply.

How do I find out what my service actually is?

The number stamped on the main breaker, or on the main fuse block if it is a fuse panel, with the panel door open. A photograph of that plus the town is usually enough for us to tell you what you are working with. Two-prong receptacles throughout and screw-in fuses usually mean a 60 A service that predates most of what is now plugged into it.

Is there anything cheaper than upgrading?

Frequently, yes. An energy management system that sheds a charger when other large loads run can make a 100 A service carry something the raw calculation says it cannot, for a fraction of an upgrade. A subpanel solves a spaces problem rather than a capacity one. Both get considered before anybody quotes a service upgrade here.

Talk to a Midland electrical contractor

Tell us three things: the town, roughly when the building went up, and what the panel looks like — fuses or breakers, and the number on the main. That is usually enough to say whether you are looking at an afternoon, a scheduled job, or a conversation with your distributor first. Often enough to price it, too, without anybody driving anywhere.

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